My son's bedroom make over is complete. Khaki and camo gone.
This is what it looked like before.
Here's the after.
I have to admit that decluttering helped make a big improvement. In the foreground is our wonderful chair, an antiques store find. He's had the mini hide rug for a while.
The first thing I made was the bed skirt. I'm not a fan of them, but we have a few things under the bed, so we had no choice. I simply used an old beige bed skirt that I already had and just sewed the new fabric over it. The beige under it looks like I lined the bed skirt. Make sure when you're measuring that you allow for a seam and a hem. Hint: It's less bulky to hem before you attach the fabric.
The next thing I did was slipcover the head board and foot board. The bed was an old maple bed. Sturdy, but not my taste. In a nutshell, I measured, allowing for seams and hems and made a huge pillowcase with an opening in the bottom. If you make the side seams really tight, you don't have to pad it at all. I slipped it over the headboard and then did the same thing for the foot board.
I bought the nightstands at an estate sale. I painted them black and then used hammered metal spray paint to change the hardware from gold to silver.
Hint: To spray paint knobs, do the underside first. When they're dry, stand them upright in the sections on the underside of an egg carton. You can cut some slits in the sections and slip the bottom of the knob into it. The carton will support the knob and keep your fingers from getting painted.
The lamps are from Home Goods. The bedspread is simple black and white ticking. It is so hard to find a quilt for a boy's room. I'm still on the hunt. But for now, this works.
The last things I sewed were the pillows for the bed and the draperies. Since I change things so frequently I never go to the expense of custom draperies. I suggest you check the internet for tutorials on sewing rod pocket draperies. Those tutorials are always well done.
Of course, I always have to include my hints to supplement the tutorial, aka what I learned the hard way.
1. Measure carefully. I measure from the ceiling to the floor and then add 3-5 inches, depending on how you want them--touching the floor, puddling.
2. Whatever the width of my fabric is the width I use for the drapery panel. It's usually 48-54 inches wide. I made two panels for each window. Obviously, if you have a large window you'll have to add some panels.
3. This is sooooo important. You must start measuring your length from a straight edge. They always cut the fabric with a scissors at the fabric store. It's never straight. If you use their cut, everything will be crooked.
You must tear the fabric. Come down a few inches from the store cut and snip into the fabric and beyond the selvage. Grab the fabric on either side of the snip and let 'r rip.
You will be surprised by how uneven it was. If you have a heavy weight fabric, you may not be able to tear. You'll have to use a square or a level to draw your straight line, then cut along the line. I mark with chalk, it brushes right off.
4. Measure down to the length you need, then snip and tear again. Now you have your first panel.
5. Even though you will be starting to measure your second panel from an even tear, if you have any pattern in your fabric you must lay the second panel alongside the first and line up the pattern. If the patterns don't meet, you'll have to line up the pattern and remove the excess from the top with the snip and rip method. Then measure down to your length. At the bottom of the panel snip and rip again. You now have your two matching panels.
6. Always line your draperies. If you don't, they'll fade. I always use
No Rain No Stain Drapery lining. I once had curtains with a black background in my kitchen. I used this lining and they never faded.
7. Repeat the cut/tear process with the lining. Make the lining a few inches shorter than the drapery panel.
8. You're ready to sew. Start with the top of the drapery panel. Pin the lining panel to the drapery panel at the top, making sure that the fronts (the part you see when you're done) are facing each other. The outside is in. Sew across the top.
9. Next, pin and sew one side of the panel.
Make sure you leave an opening near the top for the curtain rod.
Repeat on the other side. You will have 3 sides sewn with an opening in the bottom (and an opening for the drapery rod, just tuck the raw edges in.). Turn your panel and lining right side out.
10. At this point you can press the seams and then top stitch around all three sewn sides. This makes it look more finished and it will lie flat. You must also sew at the base of the opening for the curtain rod, parallel to the top of the drapery. You create a "tube" for the rod with support on the top and the bottom with your top stitching.
11. Hem the drapery to the length you want. You might want to put it on the rod and fold and measure to be sure. I machine hem.
Whew--It seems like a lot, but basically if you can sew in a straight line, you're working with a rectangle. And, when you change out the draperies you'll have no guilt. You can do this.
Last but not least, I mentioned that my son played the guitar--hence the guitar pillow on the bed. I set up a little area for him to play. The vintage Rolling Stones poster is a backdrop and an inspiration for the green in the room. I found the folding acrylic chair at a flea market.
Let me know what you think about the transformation.
Kathy
